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Style guide

Hair Designs — Line Work Cut Into a Fade

A razor design cut into the side of a fade: what to ask for, what holds up, and how long it lasts before it needs redoing.

Walk-ins welcome · Mon–Sat 9–7, Sun 10–3 · (516) 328-0724

A high skin fade with a line design cut into the side

What a hair design is

A hair design is a line or a pattern cut into the short part of a fade with the corner of a trimmer or a straight razor, so the scalp shows through and the shape reads against the hair around it. People also call it a hair tattoo, a line design or an etch. It is the same job by every name.

The design is cut after the fade, not instead of it. The fade sets how much contrast the line will have: the shorter the hair underneath, the sharper the edge, which is why a design sits best on a high skin fade or a mid fade rather than on a taper that never gets short enough to show one.

One line, or a pattern

Start with one line. A single line above the ear, following the fade, is the version that holds up — it is quick to redo, it grows out cleanly, and it does not look like a decision you regret in a fortnight.

  • One line. A straight or curved line, usually above the ear or through the part. Adds a hard edge to the cut without committing to a shape.
  • A part line. A line where you already part the hair, cut deeper and straighter than a comb can make it. The most conservative design there is.
  • Two or three lines. Parallel, usually on one side. Reads as deliberate rather than as decoration.
  • A pattern. Waves, a grid, a shape. This is the one that takes time, and the one that needs the most regrowth management.

What to ask for

Bring a photograph. A design is the one thing on this list where the words for it are unreliable — "a line", "a couple of lines", "something on the side" all describe different haircuts. A picture removes the argument.

"Mid fade on the sides, and one line above the left ear following the fade line — straight, not curved, about two inches long. Keep the top as it is."
DecisionWhat to say
Wherewhich side, and how high above the ear
How longin inches, or point at your own head
Straight or curvedcurved follows the fade, straight cuts across it
How deepto the skin, or a shadow that reads softer
Repeat it?say if you want the same design next time — we will match it

On a child. Designs work well on kids' cuts and this shop does them — the second photograph on this page is one. Ask for it at the same time as the kids' haircut, not as an afterthought once he is in the chair, because it changes how the fade is cut.

How long a design lasts

One to two weeks, and that is the honest answer. A design is cut into hair that is a few millimetres long. It is legible for about a week, soft by ten days, and gone at two to three weeks — the hair around it grows at the same rate as the hair in it, so the contrast closes from both sides.

That is the real cost of a design, and it is worth knowing before you ask for one: it is not a haircut decision, it is a fortnightly one. A shape-up at $15 can recut the line without redoing the whole head.

Price and who cuts it

There is no extra charge for a line. It is cut as part of the fade haircut — $30, the same as any men's haircut. A large pattern takes longer; ask when you sit down.

Our work

Hair Designs we have cut

Every photograph here is a cut from our chairs. A style is missing only because we have not photographed it yet.

Come in

Visit us in Franklin Square

New York Master Barbers208 Franklin Ave #1439
Franklin Square, NY 11010
(516) 328-0724
Monday – Saturday
9:00 AM – 7:00 PM
Sunday
10:00 AM – 3:00 PM

Walk-ins are welcome during all opening hours, and appointments can be made by phone.

The New York Master Barbers storefront on Franklin Avenue at dusk
Call (516) 328-0724

Walk-ins welcome · Mon–Sat 9–7, Sun 10–3