Classic Scissor Cuts and Old School Haircuts
The difference between a scissor cut and a clipper cut, what old school barbering means here, and who a full scissor cut suits.
Walk-ins welcome · Mon–Sat 9–7, Sun 10–3 · (516) 328-0724
Scissor cut vs clipper cut
A scissor cut removes length with shears, following the shape of the head, and leaves the ends of the hair cut at an angle. A clipper cut removes length with a machine set to one length, and leaves every end cut square at the same height. The difference you can see is texture: scissor- cut hair falls in a shape, clipper-cut hair sits in a plane.
The difference you can feel takes three weeks to show up. A clipper cannot cut shorter than its guard, so it cannot graduate within a section — everything it touches comes out the same length. A scissor cut can leave the crown a centimetre longer than the front with no visible step in between. That is why a grown-out scissor cut still looks like a haircut, and a grown-out clipper cut looks like it needs doing.
| Scissor cut | Clipper cut | |
|---|---|---|
| The ends | cut at an angle, so they separate | cut square, so they sit as one mass |
| Shortest possible | limited by the comb, roughly 10 mm | limited only by the blade, down to 1 mm |
| Graduation within a section | yes | no |
| Holds for | 5–8 weeks | 2–4 weeks |
| Time in the chair | 40–60 minutes | 20–30 minutes |
| Best for | thick, wavy or coarse hair, and anyone growing it out | contrast, fades, short all over |
What "old school" means here
An old school haircut means the cut is done with shears and a comb, the neckline is shaped with a straight razor rather than a clipper edge, and it is finished with a hot towel. It is a set of tools and a sequence, not a period costume.
Straight-razor work and scissor cutting are two of the four things Gali Khik — a NY State licensed Master Barber who has cut in this shop since 2005 — has specialised in for twenty years. The other two are fades and beard sculpting.
If you want the razor finish and the hot towel as their own service rather than as the end of a haircut, that is a hot towel shave.
The side part and the classic taper
A side part is cut, not combed. The barber finds where your hair naturally divides — push it forward from the crown with a flat palm and it splits itself — and then cuts the two sides to different weights so the part holds without being held.
Two decisions to make before the first cut:
- Natural part or hard part. A natural part is the one your hair already has, cut into. A hard part is a line shaved in with a razor or a clipper corner, about 2 mm wide. It is sharp, it is obvious, and it needs re-cutting every two weeks. If you want a scissor cut you probably want the natural one.
- How the sides finish. The classic taper that goes with a side part is cut scissor-over-comb — the comb lifts the hair and the shears cut against it, getting gradually shorter as the comb drops — so there is no clipper line at all, anywhere on the head.
Ask for it as: "natural part on the left, scissor-over-comb the sides down into a taper, no clippers."
Why a scissor cut takes longer
A full scissor cut takes roughly twice as long as a clipper cut, because every section is cut twice — once to set the length and once to remove the weight — and the blending between sections is done by hand rather than by changing a guard. There is no shortcut in it.
That time is the product. A clipper blend is repeatable and fast; a scissor blend is judged section by section against the shape of your particular skull, and it is the part of barbering that takes years rather than weeks to learn.
What to ask for
"Full scissor cut please, no clippers at all — including the neckline. Take about an inch off the length, keep the weight at the back, and scissor-over-comb the sides down into a taper. Natural part on the left."
Two honest additions worth making in the chair:
- "If you need a clipper or a razor for the neckline, tell me which you'd use." A truly clipper-free neckline is softer and grows out invisibly; a razored neckline is sharp for about ten days. Both are legitimate. It is your call and barbers will not guess.
- "Leave it long enough that I can come back in six weeks." A scissor cut's selling point is the interval, and it can be cut to protect it.
| Decision | Options |
|---|---|
| Length off | in centimetres or inches, from the ends — "take an inch off" |
| Weight | "keep the weight at the back" / "take the weight out of the sides" |
| Sides | scissor-over-comb taper / left one length / clipper-free |
| Part | natural / hard / none |
| Neckline | razor (sharp, 10 days) / scissor (soft, invisible grow-out) / clipper |
| Finish | hot towel, or not |
Who it suits
A scissor cut is the right cut for thick or coarse hair that gets bulky, because it removes weight without removing length — which is the one thing a clipper cannot do. It is also the cut for wavy hair, which a clipper flattens.
- Growing your hair out. A clipper cut sets you back every time. A scissor cut keeps the perimeter tidy while the length increases.
- A hairline that has moved. A soft scissor perimeter is more flattering on a receded hairline than a hard fade line, which draws attention to exactly where the hair now starts.
- Anyone who wants to come in every six to eight weeks rather than every two or three. The interval is the reason to choose it.
Who it does not suit. If you want contrast — a visible line between a long top and short sides — a scissor cut cannot give it to you, because shears cannot go short enough. Ask for a low taper fade instead. It also does not suit anyone in a hurry: this is the longest appointment in the shop.
Price and who cuts it
A classic scissor cut is a men's haircut at $30 — the same price as a clipper cut, despite taking roughly twice as long.
Classic Scissor Cuts we have cut
Every photograph here is a cut from our chairs. A style is missing only because we have not photographed it yet.
Visit us in Franklin Square
Franklin Square, NY 11010
(516) 328-0724
- Monday – Saturday
- 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM
- Sunday
- 10:00 AM – 3:00 PM
Walk-ins are welcome during all opening hours, and appointments can be made by phone.
